New study challenges circular fashion’s economic and environmental claims

While the concept sounds promising, a new study, published in the journal Frontiers in Sustainability, uncovers major flaws in how circular fashion is being implemented and discussed. Despite widespread claims that CF can recover over $500 billion in lost value annually through resale, rental, and recycling, the research reveals a $460 billion miscalculation that casts doubt on these projections.

The study evaluated 20 key reports from grey literature – non-academic industry publications – such as the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s A New Textiles Economy (2017). It found that CF concepts are poorly defined, disconnected from academic economic theory, and ultimately serve the interests of dominant fashion brands rather than consumers or workers.

The research warns that CF, in its current form, is built on unrealistic projections and industry rhetoric rather than substantive economic and environmental solutions. By prioritizing corporate interests and maintaining the status quo, CF risks creating new problems instead of solving existing ones. The study urges academics, policymakers, and industry stakeholders to critically reassess CF narratives and explore alternative approaches that prioritize systemic change over profitability. Future sustainability efforts must be grounded in robust empirical research rather than unexamined advocacy.

Source: Loughborough University